1940 Chris Craft Deluxe.

Primed.

2011-12-07T16:14:00.004-05:00

Moving a long quite nice. I have three of the four coats of Interlux 2000E primer down. According to the instructions, I must put down the 1st. coat of the bottom paint with in 7 and 9 hours after the 4th. coat to get the required bond between them. Not sure how critical this is, but I'm taking no chances. I don't want to be in position to do paint the bottom again because of blistering.

Now it's on with 2 coats of Pettit Hard Racing Copper Bronze paint. Which I hear is an "animal" all of it's own. Report to follow.

Putty up!

2011-11-30T18:19:00.005-05:00

I am pretty happy with the fairing and sanding of the bottom. After using the 8" Dewalt sander, I went over the entire bottom with a 16" long flexible longboard with 80 grit paper to get out the low spots. Then on to putty and fill the 1500+ screw holes. I used Famowood # 1 wood filler, as recommended by "the book". Though I think the DAP solvent based wood filler they sell at Home Depot works the same. For what I know, it's probably the same stuff.

For the larger bolt holes, I used Smith's Fill-It, a epoxy based wood filler that will not shrink and dries overnight.

After the wood filler dried overnight, I went over with my 5" orbital sander. Then back out for two coats of Smith's CPES. Now it looks like a spotted trout, as said by someone else.

If the mild weather hold a few more days, I may be able to lay a few coats of the Interlux 2000E primer before winter sets in. It is workable down to 41ºF (5ºC). Painting with the Copper Bronze paint must wait until spring.

Out in fresh air.

2011-11-26T07:44:00.006-05:00

The hull is out of the shop for the first time is 2 1/2 years. Initial sanding is to be done on the bottom, and want to do that outside. A lot of dust is generated and want to avoid the cleanup.

Initial sanding with my DeWalt variable speed sander with 8" soft pad. 80 grit paper is used.

Looking pretty good.

I have to reset about 50 screws that are not drilled deep enough, and then fill all the screw holes with Famowood No. 1 wood filler. Final sanding by hand with a long board before sealing with CPES and Interlux 2000E primer.

5200 bottom.

2011-11-21T16:14:00.005-05:00

I finally have a 5200 bottom, but not much more boat than that. Finished "gluing" down the bottom planks with 3M5200, and installed the 1550 (or so) screw that the original bottom had.

It is messy work, but will ensure the longevity of the bottom for the next 50+ years, that's the claim anyway. "Time will show.."

It took 30 tubes of 5200 to cover the bottom with a 3/16" V-trowel.

I will let the 5200 cure for a short week, put the wheels on again and take the hull outside for initial sanding. It create a lot of dust, and I rather do that out in the drive way.

Planked out!

2011-11-14T21:12:00.001-05:00

After a week of steam bending, sizing, cutting and hand planing I have all the planks for the bottom just right. It came out pretty good. It was somewhat hard to get the a nice even fit over the length of the boat. Was able to keep all seams inside 1/16" (1.5 mm) wide. The gap will be filled with 3M5200 during final assembly. Plank No. 1, 2, 4 and 5 are full length boards, and No. 3 is split 1/2 way.

The center lines for the frames are marked with different colors, from the marks in the keel and chine. Want to distinguish the different frames because of the different screw sizes. Main- and auxiliary frames (black and green) takes a #8 x 1 3/4" screw and the intermittent frames (red) takes a #8 x 1" screw. Also marked the where not to put a screw.

Once the planks have dried for a week or so, it's time to take the planks off again, seal with CPES and permanently install with 3M5200.

Ahh, the smell of wood.

2011-11-09T19:22:00.008-05:00

The shop is smelling like freshly cut Philippine Mahogany again. It's been a long four month "sabbatical". I've been rough cutting the bottom planks, and steam bending to take some of the stress out. This will make installing planks without help a little easier.

Note to self: Pre-fit and steam planks before inner layer is installed........

Once they cool overnight, fitting and adjustment is done. Since both the keel and the stem is new, the old garboard planks (closest plank to the keel) are not good enough for for accurate tracing.

Nice fit, after a final adjustment with a block plane.

One pair down, 4 more to go....

Goodies from Al.

2011-10-14T19:27:00.004-04:00

The last of the missing hardware is now in house. After hours of scouting eBay and calling used parts dealers, I bitt the bullet and ordered them from California Classic Boat and Al Schinnerer. He has done the research over the last 30 + years so you can be sure you get the correct piece. And they come show ready with new chrome.

The new pieces are ignition (with correct bezel), hatch handles, flagpole with globe light, trim rings for the lift rings, and trim ring for the exhaust at the transom. And new hull number and prop plates.

And then to the steering wheel... The wife had a strange look on her face when I said I needed a $1100 steering wheel.

I've been looking all over for a used 17" 3-spoke wheel. In my research I found out it is the same at used in 1936-37 Plymouth trucks. I called half a dozen antique Mopar parts dealers, without any luck. Found some one on eBay selling NOS wheels, they where "backlite" brown in color and at a $750 "buy it now". Still had to use many hours on getting it painted black, and probably with mixed results. The seller never return my question to confirm the diameter of the center recess either. Several fellow woodies-guys had old ones for sale, most in very bad shape and with a groove or two on the rim (which is said to be incorrect). Also the countless hours I had to spend repairing with epoxy putty and painting, with uncertain results.

Screwed.

2011-08-17T21:29:00.003-04:00

Not much time to work on the boat, I'm sorry to say. But I'm still gathering the needed parts and pieces. With regards to the needed silicon bronze wood screws, a pro boat restorer here in New England recommended Goulet Specialties in Winsted CT. Their prices are on par with the known "restoration box stores", but according to the the pro's, these screws have a better tensile strength and don't "snap" or break as easy. No fancy packaging, just zip-lock bags. These screws are made here in the US, and their website have videos of the manufacturing process.

I can't wait until all these 4700 screws are in.....

After some siding work on the house and replacing my patio door, I'm ready to finish up the bottom on the boat.

10,000 page views! (and not counting my own...)

2011-06-22T19:38:00.007-04:00

Just passed 10,000 page views for my blog! Pretty incredible that someone is interested in seeing a boat go from this:

To this: (hopefully... someday... sometime....)

Special thanks to Matt "WoodyBoater" Smith for featuring my bottom and link to my blog.

It's the small details.

2011-06-22T19:02:00.005-04:00

With information from the Buzz, CCABC's forum, I was able to get my hands on a correct pre-war fuel tank for about the same price as a new Rayco aluminum tank. It has the rolled lip that was used in the past and made with galvanized steel, 16" diameter and 33 gallon capacity. Modernized with a topside fuel pick-up. This tank has the fuel gauge sender which needs to be capped for use in my boat.

Currently painted GarWood green for a project that didn't materialize. Not 100% sure if this tank is restored or a new reproduction by Kinch's Radiator in CA, but it has their tag on it. If it's restored, it is in excellent, as new shape. According to their website, they restore and manufacture radiators, fuel tanks etc.

I have started the work on the bottom planking. Pictures and stories to follow soon.

Sweeet lines...

2011-05-20T11:14:00.004-04:00

There it is, the inner bottom in place. Glued, screwed, un-screwed, sanded fair and sealed with CPES. A nice smooth surface to attach the outer planking with 3M5200 without air pockets where water can seep in and cause rot problems down the road. No shortcuts.

I just love the changing shape/lines around the bow.

Now it's time to start on the fitting the planks.

A lot of work.

2011-05-16T16:49:00.003-04:00

Getting close to finish laying the inner bottom layer. Puh, lot of work though. It takes a good 20-30 minutes per board laying the bottom this way. Fitting the piece, bedding with 5200, get all those screws in, and finally cleaning up the 5200 squeeze out. I understand why most use sheets of plywood, both for labor and cost. I don't regret one bit though, that I'm doing it this way. Once I get the boat upright, I will see the grain direction the original way.

Another 3 hour of work and I'm done. Once the 5200 sets, one final fairing and the sealing with CPES. Then on to fitting the bottom planks.

Bottom up!

2011-04-29T14:40:00.004-04:00

With the help from fellow woodyboaters, I now believe I have the right shade of red for my bilge. Time has finally come to start on the bottom. As mentioned before, I'll use use solid Philippine instead of plywood for my boat. The 3/16" x 6" is properly sealed with CPES, and I'm bedding them in 5200 to the frames and between the boards. I'm using #6 x 5/8" sheet metal screw to hold everything in place until the 5200 sets.

I have only done a few boards so far, but I'm happy with how it's going. Installing the intermittent battens is a breeze, since they are steam bent into shape. And no need to send someone into the hull holding while you screw from the outside. The boards go on at a 45 dgr. angle, so you simply mark you spacing, and screw the battens inn as you go. Cleaning up the 5200 is also easy, though not less messy, since you can reach in.

If you work by your self, I think I can recommend this approach over full 8' length of plywood. Though probably a little more time consuming.

Shades of Red.

2011-04-15T11:41:00.005-04:00

This issue is driving me crazy! I have samples of 3 different "know" Chris Craft bilge paints, and the one I think is the best match, No. 3, is considered the correct for postwar Chris Crafts. And No. 2 is commonly known as the match for prewar boats (#2301 Farmhouse by Sherwin Williams). Yeah, I know, the paint on my old hull is 70 years old and probably faded as such, but still...

No. 2 seems to be too orange.

Help... Anyone?

Going diagonal.

2011-04-14T22:08:00.004-04:00

As mentioned earlier, I'm going to use 3/16" thick mahogany in stead of plywood for my inner bottom. Other restorers, both pros and amateurs alike, have said to me in a friendly way that's too much work, you will regret not using plywood. On the other hand, the purists have given me high fives and bear hugs when I mentioned traditional planking.

I've put a lot of thought into both options. Though more work, I believe properly sealed and properly bedded with 5200, the traditional diagonal bottom is just as good as plywood. And it's going to look a hole lot better. You can "score" diagonal lines in the plywood as much as you want, but you will still see the grain going the length of the boat under the paint.

The Woodery in Lunenburg MA, re-saw and planed some 1" x 6" Philippine down to 3/16" for me. It is now sealed with CPES and drying in the early spring sun.

It's somewhat a shame that it's going to be painted sort of "barn house red" bilge color.

Steaming again.

2011-04-13T13:48:00.005-04:00

Between the frames there are 20 pcs. 9/16 x 7/8" battens on each side on the boat. Cut these out of White Oak and getting the seam generator and steam box ready.

After the Oak has been "cooking" for 30 minutes, I used the boat as a jig to achieve the correct curve on the battens.

With the inevitable spring back when steam bending wood, the battens will have the correct shape of the bottom after drying. I'm marking the correct length before removing the clamps. Once dried, I'll seal them with CPES.

Back at it!

2011-04-11T20:00:00.005-04:00

With the warmer temperatures, I'm back at it. Took the chines off after drying over the winter and sealed them with CPES, and permanently re-assembled them with 3M5200.

Time has come to address the shaft hole though the keel. Got the old strut wire brushed, and ordered a new cutless bearing and strut bolts from Classic Boat Connection. With a Google search I learned that the easiest way to remove the old bearing is to carefully use a hacksaw to cut down the length of the bearing. Then it's easy to use a screwdriver to "peal" it out.

Taking measurements from the old keel for correct placement of the rudder and strut.

With the help from a 80 year old machinist in the neighborhood, he modified my old shaft onto a extended Forstner bit. The shaft is ready for replacement regardless, and this way I can drill the 1 3/8" diameter hole through the keel accurately with the strut as the guide.

Next thing to-do, making and steam bending the 9/16" x 7/8" bottom battens.

Sunnyland Classic Boat Festival

2011-03-28T12:54:00.007-04:00

No boat building in this post, just a report from my yearly trip to central Florida for the Sunnyland Boat Festival. Again, great show, unbelievable boats and great people.

A bow picture of a very nice 1930 28" Chris Craft Triple:

The cockpit of a 2011 Fish Bros. reproduction of a 1940 23' Barrelback. So well done it could be taken as a original boat.

The family came down with me this year and they had a great trip. In an effort to reach out to the younger generation, youth boat judging has become a popular event. Our kids had a great time judging Gar Wood's Miss America IX. First boat to reach 100 MPH (160 km/h) in 1931.

Met up with our friend Kjell Kristiansen. His stunning 1966 Riva Ariston fits my kids just right. Honey... I saw this boat.....

It's a car.... It's a boat... It's a 1966 Ampficar. No Sunnyland show is complete without the Ampficars. Wife and kids getting a ride.

Spring is in the air and with renewed inspiration, I'm ready to get working on my project. Next post will be boat works.

Year end....

2010-12-19T10:45:00.004-05:00

Well, it's mid December and winter is here. It'll have to wait until spring for boat work again. A trip to the Sunnyland boat show in Tavares, FL is planned for the end of March. Lots of nice boats = kick in the rear to get started again on my own again.

Happy New Year!

Got wood.

2010-12-06T14:47:00.005-05:00

Spent the morning at ML Condon Lumber in Stormville NY picking out wood for the bottom, sides and deck. 430 board feet of 6/4" Philippine mahogany that they will re-saw and plane down to 1/2" for me. Not a cheap service, but will save me a ton of time on my light industrial band saw and planer. Doing this my self will simply take forever and they will deliver to my door.

Fairly happy with the quality, there is alway that uncertainty on what to get once it's planed. Secured very nice ribbon grain wood for the transom, ceiling boards and possibly enough for the inner covering boards.

LOOK.... no clamps!

2010-12-03T15:50:00.006-05:00

It's getting cold in the garage, and I reached my goal for the "fall work session". Forefoot/stem/keel is permanently assembled. New engine stringers are screwed and assembled with 3M5200 to the frames and the topside frames are done. The transom frame is re-made, assembled and mounted to the stringers. Chines are steam bent, shaped and the rabbets are routed. The frames are faired in and the boat is straight and true.

The only thing not permanently bolted in are the chines. They need to dry over the winter since I used "green wood" for them. I'll seal with CPES and assemble in the spring.

All ready for the new bottom planking next spring. I will go with diagonal 3/16" mahogany inner planking instead of plywood. This may be more work but it was the original way and will be just as good if you butt the planks with 3M5200, and seal the wood with CPES.

Off to buy mahogany planking.....

Fitting the engine stringers.

2010-11-18T15:40:00.003-05:00

The engine stringers are now notched out, pre-drilled and fitted to the frames. Sealed with CPES and drying in the fall sun. Permanent installation with 5200 and final installation of the transom frame next week, and I'm about done before the winter arrives.

New stringers

2010-11-16T17:22:00.005-05:00

Have the new engine stringers traced from one of the old ones. Used a jigsaw to cut one, hand plane and shape into the finished shape, and then using a copy router bit with a 2" cutting length to cut out the second one. This assure that you will get two identical pieces, since it's hard to get a get a perfect 90 dgr. cut, even from the best jigsaws.

Got some very nice Douglas Fir for the new stringers through The Woodery in Lunenburg MA. Not easy or cheap to find knot free, tight grained CVG Douglas Fir here in the Northeast, but that's what it calls for.

"With no string(er)s attached"

2010-11-15T16:50:00.004-05:00

With the keel, stem/forefoot and chines bolted inn and the final fairing of the frames done, time has come to the engine stringers. Or keelsons as it's called in the old Chris Craft literature and drawings. The starboard side is rotted on the top, and the port is split the entire length.

Lifted the hull up 6" and it's now held up by 4 pcs. 2" x 4" clamped and screwed to the frames.

With the transom frame out, it's easy to just pull the stringers out the stern.

More routing.

2010-11-09T20:38:00.005-05:00

Done routing the rabbet in both sides of the keel. Coming along quite well.

Just the two topside 1/2" deep chine rabbets left, then onto replacing the engine stringers.

Rout baby, rout.....

2010-11-06T15:14:00.004-04:00

OK, that was a bad line, but the best title I could think of......

The frames are all faired inn, and the jig is screwed onto the bottom frames for routing the bottom rabbet on the Starboard chine. Again, just like a picture from Dannenberg's book.

I did the 3/4" rabbet in several passes, no more than 3/16' deep. I opted to use my little 2 HP router VS. the larger 3 1/2 HP. Less weight and size, and easier to control up against the stem.

One down, five to go....

Holding her own shape.

2010-11-03T16:29:00.004-04:00

The keel is now bolted in and permanently assembled with 5200 and the chines are screwed and bolted to the frames as well. It's been many years since this boat was this straight and true.

Now just a final fairing of the frames before routing the rabbets in the chines and keel.

Just like a picture from Dannenberg's book. I'm cutting a 3/4" deep rabbet, 7/16" for the planking, 3/16" for the diagonal mahogany inner bottom, and an extra 1/8" for 5200.

Transom frame Ver. 2.0

2010-11-03T09:21:00.005-04:00

New transom cheeks are laminated with 3M5200 and cut out on the band saw. Since much of the work with the first pair was to trace accurate templates from the original, that task with the replacements was not bad. Just to make sure you get the continuous changing outside angle correct.

The new laminated pair. It will be very hard to notice the "glue" line when painted.

The finished transom frame, sealed with CPES and assembled with 3M5200.

(Butt?)-Cracks on cheeks.

2010-10-19T16:46:00.009-04:00

I promised that I would would write about the downturns during this project too, and here is the biggest disappointment so far.

With 20 hrs. of work it took to make the two transom cheeks, cracks have appeared on both of them. Can't believe it.... I made them almost a year ago with good, flat sawn White Oak. And no sign of checking during this time. As soon as I assembled the transom frame, the checking started. And the cracks are almost 1/3 of the thickness.

My guess is that the tension from being mounted in the the frame made them fail now.

Now, let's talk about the poor design for a moment. This was bound to happen. The barrelbacks cheeks are quarter-round, and made out of one piece of wood. Originally they used Mahogany in this boat, but chose to use White Oak as described in Dannenberg's book. Still, there is no strength in this single piece of wood, shaped like this, regardless on species.

And as Danneberg write in his book, the cheeks are almost always broken on every boat his been working on.

Now, what is the solution? Anything other than original will upset the purists, which all boat show judges are. I'm also committed to stay true to the original design. But then again, this design is wrong, and I feel that the original designed cheeks will brake sooner than later regardless.

Lamination? I've been struggling with finding the right answer. Laminate two pieces together? Three, with the center piece being two pieces jointed together at a 30-40 dgr. angle to get more straight grain holding power?

Well, after discussing with several "Woodies", I've decided to laminate two pieces together. This will increase the strength and checking resistance VS. a single piece of wood and still remain very close to the original design. The glue line will be close to invisible after painting.

From what I have read and know about wood movement, epoxy lamination is out of the questions with solid wood. So I'm choosing to laminate with 3M5200. From the information I gather from professional restorers, 3M5200 will not de-laminate and is of course THE recommended adhesive for wooden boat work.

Am I right, am I wrong? Please comment!

Back to bare-bones

2010-10-11T10:47:00.006-04:00

The new keel is fitted and the chines are steam bent to the correct shape. It's time to take it all apart again for CPES sealing of all the frame parts, and permanent assembly with 3M5200 and new silicon bronze screws (slotted of course).

New and old keel, side by side:

Transom frame

2010-10-05T21:47:00.004-04:00

That was a lot of work! From cutting out the transom cheeks with the ever changing angles, to the learning curve of getting the steam bending right. I am very happy with the result though. The entire frame made in White Oak, the top and bottom bow steam bent, when assembled with 3M5200 this will be much stronger than original.

Before picture:

Chine.. (on you crazy diamond)..

2010-10-05T09:25:00.005-04:00

Moving along to the chines. Cutting the angles fit with the stem, dry fitting and steam bending.

Transom and keel work.

2010-09-30T19:51:00.007-04:00

Chipping along and getting work done. After a week of trial and error, I'm finally satisfied with the upper and lower transom bows. The curve is correct and no checking or cracks.

Starting the fitting and assembly of the new transom.

The new Mahogany keel is fitted to the bottom frames and to the forefoot/stem assembly.

Things are coming together!

Jacuzzi-oak-soak

2010-09-27T10:10:00.003-04:00

What do you when you run out of PVC plumbing pipe for pre-soaking your White Oak? That's right, the tub.

Just a thanks to an understanding (?) wife for letting me used the amenities (and the check book) for my hobby.

Now we're cooking!

2010-09-23T09:48:00.005-04:00

After burning out three heater elements in a day, I got the bugs out of my steam generator. I raised the water level to 2/3 of the riser pipe, and no problem. Also tried to steam my lower transom bow in a uninsulated plastic pipe, without much luck.

Got some 1 1/2" aluminum sided "Styrofoam" to build a proper box and getting 211-212 Fahrenheit (99-100 dgr. C) in the box. With blocks screwed to the workbench, I have no problem getting the right curve. Though I had to cook the piece 3 times, with overnight soaking in between, to get it the way I wanted. You live and learn......

The upper transom bow cooling off:

Mark Clawson Magic.

2010-09-17T08:35:00.005-04:00

Two years ago when I started asking questions on where to send my instruments for restoration, Mark Clawson was highly recommended for pre-war gauges. People also said; "It will take some time though", and they were right on that point. Yesterday I receieved back my blue-faced gauges 1 1/2 year after I sent them out. And they are awesome! His workmanship is exeptional good, we are fortunate that there are craftsmen like him left.

Before:

After:

I also want to mention Dale Kocian for gauge work. He also have a great reputation among woody boaters and is a great guy. He is also about 30% less in price than Mark. I just sent him 3 Chris Craft gauges for a 1958 Riva Florida for a friend in Norway, that had a 5 day stint under water last summer.

I'm baack!

2010-09-10T16:07:00.011-04:00

Finally, most of the "make-a-living" projects are done. And it's time for boat working full time again, at least for the next 3-4 months. We all know it, restoring boats usually take second or third place when time is allotted.

Been wood searching too. Straight grained, knot free "green" White Oak long enough for the chines is hard to come by. LL Johnson have them in Michigan, for $250-300 a piece plus shipping to MA. Fellow woodyboater Mark Bigda has been searching for good wood too, and told me that White Oak is the state tree in Connecticut. He called around and found, Charles Pike & Sons in Hampton CT. It's a old school family run mobile saw mill that also supply Mystic Seaport with some wood for their restoration of the Morgan.

They have good sources of logs, so no problem getting me the 20' long "sticks" needed for my chines. Price is right too, $265 for 3 pcs. 2 1/8" x 2 1/8" x 20' and one 8/4 x 10 x 8'.

Interesting ride with 20' long "sticks" on a 8' trailer bed.

Happy to be back in business!

General fire extinguisher

2010-07-02T07:11:00.005-04:00

The correct brass fire extinguisher is needed for a boat restoration. Dan Sakas in California (www.vintagefe.com) has done all the research on the type of fire extinguisher used in Chris Craft's from the late 20' to the 60's.

Post-war extinguishers are fairly available on eBay. But a complete show quality pre-war with the correct bracket is rare at best. Dan has collected them for years, and had the one I needed for my project. It's not cheap, but well documented and great work on the restoration.

Very good looking with the blue and the black imprint.

Project # 1 done.

2010-06-17T20:44:00.003-04:00

Sorry, not much wood on this projects, but getting my wife's first car finished will keep the green-backs flowing for upcoming boat expenses.

She bought this 1969 MGB on her 16th birthday, and I just completed body up restoration. Not much of the old car left. Looks good, and will be a trouble free car for the years to come.

Now I'll have to roll up the sleeves and get back to the boat.

A picture is worth a 1000.......

2010-05-01T20:36:00.004-04:00

What a great boat, and a great ride. On Boyd Heffern's 21' Cobra for early morning ride during the Baystate Woodies spring opener today. They had a great turnout, 12-14 boats in the water. Also had a awesome ride in Bill Sorensen's reproduction 1941 16' Chris Craft hydroplane Race boat. A very fast boat with a peppy 350 engine, doing 50+ mph.

Not much, but a little woodworking.

2010-04-18T15:27:00.004-04:00

Not much time for boat work. Kids, house renovations and "pays-the-bills-work" have me plenty busy this spring, And will keep me busy for the 1. half of the summer too. But today, I just had to go out in the shop to cut some wood. Not much, but at least I have the feeling that I'm actually working on this thing.

Last fall, I took the liberty to round the cross member for the 1. frames. In all logic, this looks more correct and craftsman's like. But, its been haunting me, will the judges see it? Well, now it's done, back to the original, even though it don't look right.

My "improved look":

Original design:

Shiny but broken

2010-04-12T09:25:00.003-04:00

Well, this is what you get working with 70 + year old sh*t (I mean things, of course). The prop is nicely polished up, but I found a thin crack 3/4 through the hub.

I'm trying to find someone that could repair it, since it is the original 1058 Chris Craft prop. But no luck so far. Anyone with a good contact, please speak up. My guess is that I'll need to get a new one.

Spit-shine.

2010-03-14T10:40:00.004-04:00

More work on the hardware. All the brass hardware is black and pitted after 70 years. So I bought a buffer from Grizzly to work on it this winter. First I bought a $80 "heavy-duty" 8" version from them, and as I should know by now, cheap stuff don't work. After 20 minutes it sounded like cold starting a 80's Mercedes Diesel engine.

Hats off for Grizzly, they took if back under warranty, and even refunded the return shipping. I could even upgrade to the $275 version. It has a 1 1/2 hp engine, long extended shafts and work like a dream. But, this is dirty work though.

Here's before and after pictures:

Mahogany story

2010-03-08T15:23:00.005-05:00

After waiting 9 weeks, I got a reply back from the USDA Forrest Service on the type of mahogany I looked at in my mechanic's shed this winter. It is of the Swietenia family, a genuine Mahogany, like Honduras Mahogany. It does not come like a big surprise, as the grain pattern and color was much darker than Philippine Mahogany.

However, ML Condon Lumber in Stormville got in 4 bundles of 16/4 Philippine last weeks. As far as I know, this is the first time this has been available in the last 10+ years. So, I was there today to pick out my 16" wide by 15' long piece for my coverings boards.

It feels good to get the correct wood specie used original, though, I think the wood had a much deeper red color 70+ years ago. I guess it won't matter that much since it will be stained with a Walnut color.

Soreng switches

2010-02-12T13:21:00.004-05:00

Winter, and too cold to work outside in the garage on the boat hull. Spending free time scouting eBay for much needed parts. Was able to buy some rare original Soreng switches needed for a correct restoration. These have small knobs, knurled nut and a round body. California Classics offer a reproduction version, but with the later square switch body, and at $66 each.

Some cleaning and re-chroming the knobs, these will look new.

I'm ready for Mt. Dora!

2010-01-16T12:48:00.003-05:00

Plane tickets booked, rental car reserved and I'm ready for the sun, boats and fellow woodyboaters.

Gemmer steering.

2009-12-28T16:20:00.006-05:00

Started the work on restoring the Gemmer steering for the boat. An incorrect 1950's white "Sheller" wheel was installed at some point in time, together with some late 50's deck hardware. A plexi glass wrap-around windshield was put on as well. I guess they tried to modernize the look to keep up with the times.

The gears and bearing, though dirty, are in very good shape with very little wear. The grease inside the housing was all dried up, to a thick tar consistency.

The steering rod have severe pit-rust though, more or less 1/2 the thickness of the pipe. So, the search have started on replacement parts. I've read that Ford Model A used the same steering, but the parts are not the same. Both the worm gear and steering rod use on Mod. A's (1928-31) have a larger diameter. Looking into the use for model year 1932-34, to see if these are the same.

If you have any parts information, please let me know.

More parts.

2009-12-16T11:59:00.006-05:00

Again, thanks to eBay, I'm getting more of the missing parts needed. This time the top part of the self bailer. I got out-bid on the thru-hull pieces on an auction from another seller. Well, next time.....

The self bailer was mounted in front on the fuel tank. I have heard that the insurance companies want them removed from the boat, since they allegedly fill the boat with water when backing up or if the boat is docked in a current.

Anyway, it's needed for a correct boat. Here is a picture supplied by Don Ayers of the correct placement.

My lucky day?

2009-12-13T18:10:00.005-05:00

Here's the story:

I am fortunate to have great car mechanics, brothers Wade and Tom Marston. Old school - can do guys, that work on any model car, from early Model T's to our Audi and Honda Minivan (though I think they enjoy the old stuff the most). These are the guys that are putting our 1969 MGB back together after a body up restoration. They are doing all the mechanical stuff and the engine rebuild.

I stopped by their shop a few weeks ago to check on the MG, and we started taking boat work. Tommy then said "I have a couple sticks of mahogany". I looked at him a little strange and said "OK" (like in I need way more than a few sticks.....)

He continues, "I bought them about 30 years ago when a lumberyard in town when bankrupt. they are about 4" thick". "You have what", I said, well aware that 16/4 (4") thick Philippine Mahogany has not been available for the last 8-10 years. "I have two pieces" he continued, "about 12 feet long and 20" wide". I could not believe what I heard. Though he thinks they might be Honduran, I needed to check them out.

He said, "well, that's easier said than done. They are stored in the back of my shed, with 30 years of car parts, including a couple of MGA's and a few motor cycles on top and in front. To get to them we have to cut a hole in the outside wall, but I'll do that for you".

I went to see him today, and with the end wall open up I could see the two slabs. One is 21" wide and the other is 24" wide.

He had three pieces at one point, and from the 4" x 4" pieces that's left of the last, I took this picture with my cell phone. From this cut made 15-20 years ago, it is hard to see what type of Mahogany it is. Let me know if you have a suggestion or want to guess. I'm sending a sample to USDA Forest Service tomorrow. They should be able to determine the correct specie.

Again, let me know if you can help me out.

New (old) parts.

2009-12-11T14:23:00.005-05:00

A lot of parts are needed and finding the correct parts take some searching and help from the classic boating community. Found the correct Autolite 6V horn on eBay, from a guy in NC restoring parts to be used on Hot Rod's. Chris Craft used some of the same parts that was used in the cars of the time.

The old horn, completely rusted out.

Tight cheeks??

2009-12-09T13:55:00.005-05:00

Started on the transom work, and completed the cheeks. Cut out of 12" wide White Oak. Between the two old deteriorated ones, I was able to trace a set of good set of templates. The angle on the outside changes every 2 inches, so a lot of adjustments on the band saw.

And after 20+ years in woodworking, I clearly has a lot to learn about wood. Steam bending is all new to me, and I have spent a lot of time reading up on it. One prerequisite is straight grained, knot free wood. So I carefully chose the lower transom piece with this is mind (I thought). Well, after 4 days of soaking in a 4" PVC pipe. This is how it looked when it came out...... Damn it......

Schedule for tomorrow: Out buying more White Oak.........

Got steam?

2009-12-08T16:47:00.005-05:00

A day of labor, two trips to Home Depot, about $200 in plumbing pipe, 3500W heater element and a 25' for cord, we're making steam. Used the well described Dannenberg version, except used a 5 gallon plastic can instead of a sight tube and stabilizer pipe. I got this idea from an article in The Brass Bell, called "Bending wood at Fahrenheit 212". Much less labor-, parts- and cost intensive.

It works very well, steam in less than 5 minutes.

During my 30 minute test run, it used less than 1 gallon of the water, so I should be good for a 2 hour run for steaming 7/8 Oak (1 3/4") without refilling. If I need to cook anything longer than that, I could just slowly add more water to the tank.

I will move the can 3" higher though, so I'll get about 4 gallon of "water height" above the top of the heater element.

No end to "it".

2009-12-03T17:54:00.009-05:00

The transom framing is off, and I can't understand how it kept the boat together no less the shape of a barrelback. Cheeks broken in several pieces, the parts not having red paint is "dry" rot.

As stated many times, I want to keep the boat original. However, I will improve slightly the transom framing. The cheeks are 7/4 (1 3/4") thickness, the lower bow and vertical supports are 6/4, the top bow is 5/4, and a two-piece construction. Both White Oak and Mahogany is used in a mix as well. I will make all the parts in 7/4 White Oak.

With tape and screws I guess I have enough for tracing.....

Not being sure what would happen with the outside shape of the boat with the transom removed, I screwed a 2"x4" to the between the battens and used a strap to hold the shape.

White Oak is soaking, and a steam generator must be built.

Framed!

2009-12-02T20:57:00.004-05:00

I'm framed, that's what they all say. Well, I'm all done with the topside- and bottom framed. And as always, things takes alot longer than expected. I am however, happy with the result. Spent a lot of time with levels, straight edges and battens to find the "sweet" lines, especially on the forward 1/3 of the boat. Most of the frames were rotten with missing sections, barely good enough to trace onto cardboard.

I may have one or two frames that are a little high, but I'll wait with the final fairing until the transom, keel and chines are in place.

Now I'm ready for the transom cheeks and bow.

New Stem and Forefoot.

2009-11-27T18:40:00.010-05:00

When planning this restoration, I knew that reproducing a new Stem-Forefoot assembly would be one of the most challenging things. The original was broken in several pieces, with parts missing. I got it screwed and taped together enough to use as a template. Some of the shapes had to be drawn by hand.

Hull without Stem-Forefoot:

I followed Dannenberg's method with a clear plastic and a tracing wheel. This worked very well, however I took a shortcut when I used a thin stencil type, sticky back plastic. I would recommend to use the thicker Mylar plastic described in his book.

I am very happy with the end result. As described, I used a 1/8" router bit make the first "center" cut for the depth of the rabbet. Then using my Fein Multimaster with a 1 1/8" wide blade to carve out down to correct depth. Some light chisel work and final sanding.

Old and new, side by side:

Test fit:

The last two bottom- and topside frames to do, and then the transom.

Drawings from Mariners Museum

2009-11-07T11:08:00.005-05:00

The ordered drawings for the 17' Deluxe arrived from the Mariners Museum this week. Not much details on them, but the drawing for the 1941 model year show the placement of some of the trim pieces.

Still pretty cool that all this documentation is saved and available.

Note the steering wheel drawn on the 1940 model. Banjo..... Hmmmmm.... Banjo or not to banjo, that's another decision to make. Down the line though......

1940:

1941:

More wood, and my wife is.....

2009-11-07T10:13:00.004-05:00

...not exactly as exited about a nice piece of wood as I am. Especially when it we talking $1500 for a few boards of wood.....

Went to the Woodery yesterday to pick up two 18' long Douglas Fir stock for the new engine stringer (aka keelsons). Not easy or cheap to find wood that was abundant 70 years ago. They were able to locate some decent 8/4 SVG (straight vertical grain) Doug. Fir that they planed down to the proper 1 5/8". I also picked up a 7/4 x 12" x 10' White Oak for the stem, forefoot, transom bow and cheeks. And some 1 3/4" x 5 1/2" by 16' Philippine Mahogany for the keel. This should keep me plenty busy over the winter.

Cutting wood, finally!

2009-11-01T18:32:00.007-05:00

I'm now happy with straightness of the hull, and have finally started cutting out new bottom- and topside frames from my Philippine Mahogany frame stock. The new Grizzly bandsaw works very well, though it take some practice to get the ever changing angle on the outside edge of the topside frame just right. Found it to be much easier to pattern onto some poster board, cut out, and use this to template new topsides.

Aft bottom frames done:

And on to the topsides:

Nice, tight fit, though it took one to "practice"

7/4 White Oak for transom bow, cheeks, stem/forefoot on order, ready to pick up this week. Chine and keel stock as well.

Still at it.

2009-10-19T20:08:00.004-04:00

Still working on getting the planning surface flat and straight. After hours with battens and straight edges, I have a 6 foot flat planning surface.

When I strung a line from the transom forward, I can see that the bow and topside frame station # 1 is "leaning" about 1 inch to the port. First I thought this was a result of the bow being bend down, as described earlier (and poked fun of by Mr. Woodyboater himself). However, when I measured both sides of the topsides, the port side plank # 2 is 1/2" shorter than the starboard. The boat was planked crocked. I guess I got the "Monday AM" boat. With all the small errors I've seen so far, it is pretty clear that these boats were made with "assembly line" speed. Not with a craftsman's skill.

Bent frames?

2009-10-11T15:18:00.004-04:00

The bow has bent down several inches over the years, and the keel has a significant bulge in the engine area. Either the weight of the bow and improper storage or the weight of the engine over the frames is the probable cause. After the I removed the keel, some cement blocks did the trick. Blocking with the correct thickness between the floor and sheer line.

The boat was assembled from pre-cut parts back in the days, and frames was supposed to be assembled tight. I guess 1/4" - 3/8" gap was close enough. I also think the half-round holes was drilled after frame was assembled and bolted in. They have different placement and size from frame to frame. This one is is also drilled at an angle.

I'm also waiting for the profile drawing of the hull from the Mariners Museum. I hope this will tell me if and how much concave shape the frames have, especially the aft 3 or 4 on the planning surface. Can't seem to get it to look right with battens and straightedges.

Straight?

2009-10-07T21:34:00.006-04:00

Over the last days, I've been leveling and straightening the hull. A lot of work is needed. Like all gray boats, the hull is "hogged" and the keel has a bulge were it's supposed to have a 8' flat section. The RotoLaser comes in handy.

After the bottom frames are moved back tight to the keel and secured, the topside frames are pulled together with ratchet straps. Wood brazing will hold them in place when propperly aligned.

New Grizzly bandsaw is purchased, and a new 22oV circuit is added to the shop.

I got wood!

2009-10-01T22:11:00.005-04:00

After debating using White Oak or Philippine mahogany for my frames, I had set my sights on White Oak mainly due to the rot resistance of the White Oak. However, after some soul searching and my dedication to restore this boat back to original specs, I had to fine some deep red, rift sawn and dense Philippine mahogany. The Woodery in Lunenburg MA just got a shipment that fit the bill. 5/4" stock which they planed down to the correct 15/16" thickness.

Enough for both bottom-, topside and deck framing.

Bare bones!

2009-10-01T21:43:00.006-04:00

Here we go! No turning back now. The bottom and the 1st. stake topside plank is removed. And for one short, little second, the dreaded thought was there.... What in the hell have I put my self into, but only for one short, little second though....... Then I got back into my dreams of shiny mahogany and flathead six sound over a mirror lake.

No big surprises, just a confirmation that all bottom frames and most topside frames must be replaced. There will be much work in straightening the hull, Improper storage and the bow being exposed to weather for many years has made the bow bend down.

"Dry rot" and frame movement. The chines are totally gone.

And the patient is.......

2009-09-26T12:50:00.004-04:00

.....resting comfortably on her back. Ready for bottom removal and hours of leveling and straightening before fabrication of new bottom- and most topside frames.

The entire bottom - transom corner is wrapped in copper flashing, nailed in with hundreds of copper brads. Some kind of window glazing or putty was put into rot voids.

Roll-over day!

2009-09-25T16:06:00.005-04:00

After much planning, the day had come for my first antique boat roll-over. I've made lift frames, made my own "Dannenberg light" rollers, brazed the hull and was ready to go. And it went as smooth as can be. With help from my neighbor, it was done in 1 1/2 hour, including setup of frames and rigging.

1/3 of the way around. I could have tighten the 4" straps a little, but just enough clearance.

Everything held up just fine. and ready to roll back into the shop for bottom removal and straightening.

Brazed for success?

2009-09-24T20:20:00.005-04:00

The old crocked hull need to be supported before attempting to roll her over. Cross brazing with tie-inn to the keel is installed.

Since I don't have enough roof height in my shop, the boat needs to be moved outside for the roll-over. I installed built inn dollies that will work as support when moved inside again. Take the wheels off, unscrew from the engine stringers and start leveling and straightening.

Boat works, finally!

2009-09-23T20:29:00.005-04:00

Most of the other projects are finally done, so now it's time for boat work! Remaining hardware is now out of the boat, ready for some structural brazing for the turn-over.

The "wiring harness" is out, complete with Homer boxes and all. I will save it for future reference use.

Are getting things moving along now. installing brazing tomorrow, and turn-over in the next few days. Ordering White Oak for the frames, and a new bandsaw is already on order. Check back for updates!

Riva cruise in Oslo Harbor

2009-09-12T09:45:00.005-04:00

Torbjørn Skjøren, President of Riva Club Norway, offered my wife, a friend and my self a Sunday afternoon cruise in Oslo Harbor while on vacation in August. Could not pass on a chance to get a ride on his beatifull 1961 Riva Tritone.

Now, it's just to get to work and get my own boat ready!

Cool picture.

2009-07-13T19:25:00.003-04:00

I saw this picture on MLVR's blog on resurrecting a 1946 Special Runabout, and though it was really cool. Just the "right" woodyboater persona. He even got the "on Golden Pond" style hat!

Loaded!

2009-06-08T13:18:00.003-04:00

Got both the correct K and the KLC engine loaded on the trailer for the trip down the north-east corridor to Van Ness Engineering. David will purchase the KLC as a core engine.

The rebuilding of the K will be done in late August, and I can't wait......

Correct K engine.

2009-06-01T18:54:00.003-04:00

I have not been able to do much work on the boat this spring, but I picked up a correct pre-war K engine in northern Connecticut over the weekend. It is correct 1940 vintage, and is ready for complete rebuild. There are many machine shops that do good work on Chris Craft engines. From recommendations I'm in discussion with David Van Ness to work on my engine. Once we agree on cost I will take it down to his shop in New Jersey.

Back from Mt. Dora

2009-03-30T10:07:00.005-04:00

I spent the last weekend in March at Mt. Dora for the annual boat show. It was great to connect with the guys running the CCABC, Bill Basler, Don Ayers, Bill Baldwin and others. Met Mark Christensen as well, who's working on a 42 17' Deluxe.

Here is "Twigs" a 1942 17' Deluxe at the show:

The marque boat this year was Riva's. And I met up with several Riva guys, that are fellow CCABC members as well, Torbjørn Skjøren president of Riva Club Norway and Kjell Kristensen showing his beautiful 22' Riva Ariston.

A great show, with many and a wide variety of antique and classic boats.

Christmas in February.

2009-02-10T16:27:00.007-05:00

The next best thing to getting the last Brass Bell from CCABC in the mail was to receive the "research package" from the Mariners Museum. Chris Craft donated the hull card for every boat built since the 20's, so you can see exactly how your boat was equipped when shipped from the Chris Craft plant. The museum also have drawings, documentation and original photos you can order copies of.

My boat was shipped as a standard boat, no extra equipment or special order.

Removing the hardware.

2009-01-22T10:23:00.006-05:00

It's been cold... really cold... On the only day above freezing so far this year, I was able to start removing hardware and gauges. The gauges are in pretty bad shape, and after research and recommendations, I have chosen Mark Clawson (www.markclawson.com) to restore them back to their former glory.

This the current state of the gauges:

And this is how they would look after Mark Clawson is finished:

Through "The Buzz", Chris Craft Antiques boat club's online forum, I got confirmed that my deck vents are the original for the 1940 17" Deluxe.

I got the tickets and hotels for the Mount Dora show in March booked as well. Can't wait...............

Engine choice and old litterature

2009-01-01T20:19:00.003-05:00

Thanks (?) to Matt Smith at woodyboater.com, I'm now "plastered all over the blogosphere". All I wanted was to keep a journal for friends and family to follow the progress on the project. Well, this is my chance to keep both the boat project and blog going.

Engine choices:
The original 95 hp K engine was replaced with a 120 hp KLC sometime in the 50's. Since I am going to spend a lot of money on the engine, I asked Don Ayers for his advise on the matter. And, as expected from the "master of barrelbacks", I received a well documented and meaningfull reply. Putting a pre-war engine back in the boat is only right choice. And If I wanted an engine with with more horse power (like the KLC) I should consider to have a 121 hp KB built, which was an option for the 17' Deluxe. The triple carburetor KB is an great looking engine, however 3 grand more than a K, well we'll see.....

Here is some great information I got on the KB from Don Ayers:

From the Chris Craft Antique Boat Club's archives I found a copy of the original brochure for the 1940 Chris Craft line up. Below you see the page on the 1940 17' Deluxe. Cost new in 1940 with the K engine option, $1445.00.

Happy new boating year!

Engine is out and oohh yee, project No. 1....

2008-12-21T19:04:00.000-05:00

Took the engine out the same time I lifted her of the trailer. No surprises, but I just want to show of the great engine mount bracing.... Nothing like 2 by 4's and some 5" nails.

The engine on it's new crate. Not for too long I hope........ 2 years maybe 3........

Also, check out the wiring. A "great" retrofit with one "handy-box" at the engine and one under the dash. Four-lead household cable. Ground wire to starter.........

Just want to give a "honorable mention" to project No. 1. Getting this one done first will "grease the wheel" when it come to getting woody-boat expenses "approved" in years to come. My wife's first car, a 1969 MGB which she bought on her 16th birthday. Are in good route to get it finished for her big 4-0 next May. Engine is out being rebuilt by one of the best mechanics I ever met, Wade Marston here in Shrewsbury, old school and can-do. New valve seats for unleaded gas, total rebuild. He might restore and rebuild the flathead six as well. Just waiting for the bodyshop to pick her up for a back to original British Racing Green paint job (and a few pounds of Bondo....).

Off the trailer, out with the engine.

2008-12-03T16:24:00.000-05:00

$200 worth of materials from Home Depot + 2 days of labor to build lift frames, $150 for a pair of 2 ton chain falls from Grizzly, $30 for a pair of 4" straps from a on-line shipping supplier and we're ready to lift the boat off the trailer.

All strapped up and ready to lift. Will my frame hold? After all they are made so I can take them apart for easy storage.

Everything just fine, no bending or flexing. So I guess my "rule of thumb" engineering works...... (the clamps are only for keeping the chains away from the boat)

Finally off the trailer and on the dollies. Now you can really see the exceptional beautiful lines. I guess that is why these boats are sought after today.
Now back in the garage for removal of all interior hardware over the winter, and hopefully turn her over to start the woodwork in early spring.

A little history.

2008-11-28T17:45:00.000-05:00

This boat left Algonac on May 28th. 1940, and was delivered to Washington DC. I believe the boat was kept in Virginia most of it's seaworthy life. You can see the outline of the boat registration, VA 7418 B, on it's bow. It would be cool to track this down, and find it's original owners or their family.

During production, the hull number was punched into the wood several places on the boat. Inside the hatch frame and on the hatches them self. Pretty cool......

I need to look into suppliers for the engine work. Van Ness Engineering has done great wonders on other engines from gray boats, and Mark Dawson is renowned for his work on gauges. Have a feel it's going to get expensive very soon........

Have started to disassemble of the interior, or what's left of it. Most of the rot appear to be between the forward seat and steering column. Got some rot on top of the starboard stringer, maybe 1/2" deep. I've either have to replace the entire stringer or make a "dutchman". I'll make the decision when it's turned over.

1940 17' Chris Craft Deluxe, No. 71648.

2008-11-27T11:36:00.000-05:00

Well, here she is. After two years of studying frame up boat restoration, my new project is in the drive way. And I'm getting ready for 2000 or so hours of restoration work. The 17' Barrelback, manufactured in '40, '41' and '42 is one of the most collectable Chris Craft antique boats, with only 425 made. Even though I'm a woodworker by trade, new skills need to be learned. Steam bending is all new to me. I'll update the blog as I go along with the restoration. Hints and problems will be listed.