Still at it.

Still working on getting the planning surface flat and straight. After hours with battens and straight edges, I have a 6 foot flat planning surface.

When I strung a line from the transom forward, I can see that the bow and topside frame station # 1 is "leaning" about 1 inch to the port. First I thought this was a result of the bow being bend down, as described earlier (and poked fun of by Mr. Woodyboater himself). However, when I measured both sides of the topsides, the port side plank # 2 is 1/2" shorter than the starboard. The boat was planked crocked. I guess I got the "Monday AM" boat. With all the small errors I've seen so far, it is pretty clear that these boats were made with "assembly line" speed. Not with a craftsman's skill.

Bent frames?

The bow has bent down several inches over the years, and the keel has a significant bulge in the engine area. Either the weight of the bow and improper storage or the weight of the engine over the frames is the probable cause. After the I removed the keel, some cement blocks did the trick. Blocking with the correct thickness between the floor and sheer line.

The boat was assembled from pre-cut parts back in the days, and frames was supposed to be assembled tight. I guess 1/4" - 3/8" gap was close enough. I also think the half-round holes was drilled after frame was assembled and bolted in. They have different placement and size from frame to frame. This one is is also drilled at an angle.

I'm also waiting for the profile drawing of the hull from the Mariners Museum. I hope this will tell me if and how much concave shape the frames have, especially the aft 3 or 4 on the planning surface. Can't seem to get it to look right with battens and straightedges.

Straight?

Over the last days, I've been leveling and straightening the hull. A lot of work is needed. Like all gray boats, the hull is "hogged" and the keel has a bulge were it's supposed to have a 8' flat section. The RotoLaser comes in handy.

After the bottom frames are moved back tight to the keel and secured, the topside frames are pulled together with ratchet straps. Wood brazing will hold them in place when propperly aligned.

New Grizzly bandsaw is purchased, and a new 22oV circuit is added to the shop.

I got wood!

After debating using White Oak or Philippine mahogany for my frames, I had set my sights on White Oak mainly due to the rot resistance of the White Oak. However, after some soul searching and my dedication to restore this boat back to original specs, I had to fine some deep red, rift sawn and dense Philippine mahogany. The Woodery in Lunenburg MA just got a shipment that fit the bill. 5/4" stock which they planed down to the correct 15/16" thickness.




Enough for both bottom-, topside and deck framing.

Bare bones!

Here we go! No turning back now. The bottom and the 1st. stake topside plank is removed. And for one short, little second, the dreaded thought was there.... What in the hell have I put my self into, but only for one short, little second though....... Then I got back into my dreams of shiny mahogany and flathead six sound over a mirror lake.



No big surprises, just a confirmation that all bottom frames and most topside frames must be replaced. There will be much work in straightening the hull, Improper storage and the bow being exposed to weather for many years has made the bow bend down.



"Dry rot" and frame movement. The chines are totally gone.