Fitting the engine stringers.

The engine stringers are now notched out, pre-drilled and fitted to the frames. Sealed with CPES and drying in the fall sun. Permanent installation with 5200 and final installation of the transom frame next week, and I'm about done before the winter arrives.

New stringers

Have the new engine stringers traced from one of the old ones. Used a jigsaw to cut one, hand plane and shape into the finished shape, and then using a copy router bit with a 2" cutting length to cut out the second one. This assure that you will get two identical pieces, since it's hard to get a get a perfect 90 dgr. cut, even from the best jigsaws.

Got some very nice Douglas Fir for the new stringers through The Woodery in Lunenburg MA. Not easy or cheap to find knot free, tight grained CVG Douglas Fir here in the Northeast, but that's what it calls for.

"With no string(er)s attached"

With the keel, stem/forefoot and chines bolted inn and the final fairing of the frames done, time has come to the engine stringers. Or keelsons as it's called in the old Chris Craft literature and drawings. The starboard side is rotted on the top, and the port is split the entire length.

Lifted the hull up 6" and it's now held up by 4 pcs. 2" x 4" clamped and screwed to the frames.

With the transom frame out, it's easy to just pull the stringers out the stern.

More routing.

Done routing the rabbet in both sides of the keel. Coming along quite well.

Just the two topside 1/2" deep chine rabbets left, then onto replacing the engine stringers.

Rout baby, rout.....

OK, that was a bad line, but the best title I could think of......

The frames are all faired inn, and the jig is screwed onto the bottom frames for routing the bottom rabbet on the Starboard chine. Again, just like a picture from Dannenberg's book.

I did the 3/4" rabbet in several passes, no more than 3/16' deep. I opted to use my little 2 HP router VS. the larger 3 1/2 HP. Less weight and size, and easier to control up against the stem.

One down, five to go....

Holding her own shape.

The keel is now bolted in and permanently assembled with 5200 and the chines are screwed and bolted to the frames as well. It's been many years since this boat was this straight and true.

Now just a final fairing of the frames before routing the rabbets in the chines and keel.

Just like a picture from Dannenberg's book. I'm cutting a 3/4" deep rabbet, 7/16" for the planking, 3/16" for the diagonal mahogany inner bottom, and an extra 1/8" for 5200.

Transom frame Ver. 2.0

New transom cheeks are laminated with 3M5200 and cut out on the band saw. Since much of the work with the first pair was to trace accurate templates from the original, that task with the replacements was not bad. Just to make sure you get the continuous changing outside angle correct.

The new laminated pair. It will be very hard to notice the "glue" line when painted.

The finished transom frame, sealed with CPES and assembled with 3M5200.