Straight?

Over the last days, I've been leveling and straightening the hull. A lot of work is needed. Like all gray boats, the hull is "hogged" and the keel has a bulge were it's supposed to have a 8' flat section. The RotoLaser comes in handy.

After the bottom frames are moved back tight to the keel and secured, the topside frames are pulled together with ratchet straps. Wood brazing will hold them in place when propperly aligned.

New Grizzly bandsaw is purchased, and a new 22oV circuit is added to the shop.

I got wood!

After debating using White Oak or Philippine mahogany for my frames, I had set my sights on White Oak mainly due to the rot resistance of the White Oak. However, after some soul searching and my dedication to restore this boat back to original specs, I had to fine some deep red, rift sawn and dense Philippine mahogany. The Woodery in Lunenburg MA just got a shipment that fit the bill. 5/4" stock which they planed down to the correct 15/16" thickness.




Enough for both bottom-, topside and deck framing.

Bare bones!

Here we go! No turning back now. The bottom and the 1st. stake topside plank is removed. And for one short, little second, the dreaded thought was there.... What in the hell have I put my self into, but only for one short, little second though....... Then I got back into my dreams of shiny mahogany and flathead six sound over a mirror lake.



No big surprises, just a confirmation that all bottom frames and most topside frames must be replaced. There will be much work in straightening the hull, Improper storage and the bow being exposed to weather for many years has made the bow bend down.



"Dry rot" and frame movement. The chines are totally gone.

And the patient is.......

.....resting comfortably on her back. Ready for bottom removal and hours of leveling and straightening before fabrication of new bottom- and most topside frames.



The entire bottom - transom corner is wrapped in copper flashing, nailed in with hundreds of copper brads. Some kind of window glazing or putty was put into rot voids.

Roll-over day!

After much planning, the day had come for my first antique boat roll-over. I've made lift frames, made my own "Dannenberg light" rollers, brazed the hull and was ready to go. And it went as smooth as can be. With help from my neighbor, it was done in 1 1/2 hour, including setup of frames and rigging.



1/3 of the way around. I could have tighten the 4" straps a little, but just enough clearance.



Everything held up just fine. and ready to roll back into the shop for bottom removal and straightening.

Brazed for success?

The old crocked hull need to be supported before attempting to roll her over. Cross brazing with tie-inn to the keel is installed.



Since I don't have enough roof height in my shop, the boat needs to be moved outside for the roll-over. I installed built inn dollies that will work as support when moved inside again. Take the wheels off, unscrew from the engine stringers and start leveling and straightening.

Boat works, finally!

Most of the other projects are finally done, so now it's time for boat work! Remaining hardware is now out of the boat, ready for some structural brazing for the turn-over.





The "wiring harness" is out, complete with Homer boxes and all. I will save it for future reference use.



Are getting things moving along now. installing brazing tomorrow, and turn-over in the next few days. Ordering White Oak for the frames, and a new bandsaw is already on order. Check back for updates!