Soreng switches

Winter, and too cold to work outside in the garage on the boat hull. Spending free time scouting eBay for much needed parts. Was able to buy some rare original Soreng switches needed for a correct restoration. These have small knobs, knurled nut and a round body. California Classics offer a reproduction version, but with the later square switch body, and at $66 each.

Some cleaning and re-chroming the knobs, these will look new.

I'm ready for Mt. Dora!

Plane tickets booked, rental car reserved and I'm ready for the sun, boats and fellow woodyboaters.

Gemmer steering.

Started the work on restoring the Gemmer steering for the boat. An incorrect 1950's white "Sheller" wheel was installed at some point in time, together with some late 50's deck hardware. A plexi glass wrap-around windshield was put on as well. I guess they tried to modernize the look to keep up with the times.

The gears and bearing, though dirty, are in very good shape with very little wear. The grease inside the housing was all dried up, to a thick tar consistency.

The steering rod have severe pit-rust though, more or less 1/2 the thickness of the pipe. So, the search have started on replacement parts. I've read that Ford Model A used the same steering, but the parts are not the same. Both the worm gear and steering rod use on Mod. A's (1928-31) have a larger diameter. Looking into the use for model year 1932-34, to see if these are the same.

If you have any parts information, please let me know.

More parts.

Again, thanks to eBay, I'm getting more of the missing parts needed. This time the top part of the self bailer. I got out-bid on the thru-hull pieces on an auction from another seller. Well, next time.....

The self bailer was mounted in front on the fuel tank. I have heard that the insurance companies want them removed from the boat, since they allegedly fill the boat with water when backing up or if the boat is docked in a current.

Anyway, it's needed for a correct boat. Here is a picture supplied by Don Ayers of the correct placement.

New (old) parts.

A lot of parts are needed and finding the correct parts take some searching and help from the classic boating community. Found the correct Autolite 6V horn on eBay, from a guy in NC restoring parts to be used on Hot Rod's. Chris Craft used some of the same parts that was used in the cars of the time.

The old horn, completely rusted out.

Tight cheeks??

Started on the transom work, and completed the cheeks. Cut out of 12" wide White Oak. Between the two old deteriorated ones, I was able to trace a set of good set of templates. The angle on the outside changes every 2 inches, so a lot of adjustments on the band saw.

And after 20+ years in woodworking, I clearly has a lot to learn about wood. Steam bending is all new to me, and I have spent a lot of time reading up on it. One prerequisite is straight grained, knot free wood. So I carefully chose the lower transom piece with this is mind (I thought). Well, after 4 days of soaking in a 4" PVC pipe. This is how it looked when it came out...... Damn it......

Schedule for tomorrow: Out buying more White Oak.........

Got steam?

A day of labor, two trips to Home Depot, about $200 in plumbing pipe, 3500W heater element and a 25' for cord, we're making steam. Used the well described Dannenberg version, except used a 5 gallon plastic can instead of a sight tube and stabilizer pipe. I got this idea from an article in The Brass Bell, called "Bending wood at Fahrenheit 212". Much less labor-, parts- and cost intensive.

It works very well, steam in less than 5 minutes.

During my 30 minute test run, it used less than 1 gallon of the water, so I should be good for a 2 hour run for steaming 7/8 Oak (1 3/4") without refilling. If I need to cook anything longer than that, I could just slowly add more water to the tank.

I will move the can 3" higher though, so I'll get about 4 gallon of "water height" above the top of the heater element.