Screwed.

Not much time to work on the boat, I'm sorry to say. But I'm still gathering the needed parts and pieces. With regards to the needed silicon bronze wood screws, a pro boat restorer here in New England recommended Goulet Specialties in Winsted CT. Their prices are on par with the known "restoration box stores", but according to the the pro's, these screws have a better tensile strength and don't "snap" or break as easy. No fancy packaging, just zip-lock bags. These screws are made here in the US, and their website have videos of the manufacturing process.

I can't wait until all these 4700 screws are in.....

After some siding work on the house and replacing my patio door, I'm ready to finish up the bottom on the boat.

It's the small details.

With information from the Buzz, CCABC's forum, I was able to get my hands on a correct pre-war fuel tank for about the same price as a new Rayco aluminum tank. It has the rolled lip that was used in the past and made with galvanized steel, 16" diameter and 33 gallon capacity. Modernized with a topside fuel pick-up. This tank has the fuel gauge sender which needs to be capped for use in my boat.

Currently painted GarWood green for a project that didn't materialize. Not 100% sure if this tank is restored or a new reproduction by Kinch's Radiator in CA, but it has their tag on it. If it's restored, it is in excellent, as new shape. According to their website, they restore and manufacture radiators, fuel tanks etc.

I have started the work on the bottom planking. Pictures and stories to follow soon.

Sweeet lines...

There it is, the inner bottom in place. Glued, screwed, un-screwed, sanded fair and sealed with CPES. A nice smooth surface to attach the outer planking with 3M5200 without air pockets where water can seep in and cause rot problems down the road. No shortcuts.

I just love the changing shape/lines around the bow.

Now it's time to start on the fitting the planks.

A lot of work.

Getting close to finish laying the inner bottom layer. Puh, lot of work though. It takes a good 20-30 minutes per board laying the bottom this way. Fitting the piece, bedding with 5200, get all those screws in, and finally cleaning up the 5200 squeeze out. I understand why most use sheets of plywood, both for labor and cost. I don't regret one bit though, that I'm doing it this way. Once I get the boat upright, I will see the grain direction the original way.

Another 3 hour of work and I'm done. Once the 5200 sets, one final fairing and the sealing with CPES. Then on to fitting the bottom planks.

Bottom up!

With the help from fellow woodyboaters, I now believe I have the right shade of red for my bilge. Time has finally come to start on the bottom. As mentioned before, I'll use use solid Philippine instead of plywood for my boat. The 3/16" x 6" is properly sealed with CPES, and I'm bedding them in 5200 to the frames and between the boards. I'm using #6 x 5/8" sheet metal screw to hold everything in place until the 5200 sets.

I have only done a few boards so far, but I'm happy with how it's going. Installing the intermittent battens is a breeze, since they are steam bent into shape. And no need to send someone into the hull holding while you screw from the outside. The boards go on at a 45 dgr. angle, so you simply mark you spacing, and screw the battens inn as you go. Cleaning up the 5200 is also easy, though not less messy, since you can reach in.

If you work by your self, I think I can recommend this approach over full 8' length of plywood. Though probably a little more time consuming.

Shades of Red.

This issue is driving me crazy! I have samples of 3 different "know" Chris Craft bilge paints, and the one I think is the best match, No. 3, is considered the correct for postwar Chris Crafts. And No. 2 is commonly known as the match for prewar boats (#2301 Farmhouse by Sherwin Williams). Yeah, I know, the paint on my old hull is 70 years old and probably faded as such, but still...

No. 2 seems to be too orange.

Help... Anyone?

Going diagonal.

As mentioned earlier, I'm going to use 3/16" thick mahogany in stead of plywood for my inner bottom. Other restorers, both pros and amateurs alike, have said to me in a friendly way that's too much work, you will regret not using plywood. On the other hand, the purists have given me high fives and bear hugs when I mentioned traditional planking.

I've put a lot of thought into both options. Though more work, I believe properly sealed and properly bedded with 5200, the traditional diagonal bottom is just as good as plywood. And it's going to look a hole lot better. You can "score" diagonal lines in the plywood as much as you want, but you will still see the grain going the length of the boat under the paint.

The Woodery in Lunenburg MA, re-saw and planed some 1" x 6" Philippine down to 3/16" for me. It is now sealed with CPES and drying in the early spring sun.

It's somewhat a shame that it's going to be painted sort of "barn house red" bilge color.