Sunday, January 14, 2018

Stain and varnish.

When it comes to staining and stain color, there are as many opinion as there are taste in women. I've looked at 100's of boats over the last years, read up on every blog and forum post on the subject, and asked all of the most reputable restorers in the country. But what is comes down to, do what do you like. It's your boat. Get opinions from the hobby, make stain samples, put varnish on them, and choose the one you like the best.

Most prewar boats have a two-tone color scheme. Mahogany red/brown hull (to taste), and walnut/dark (to taste) covering boards and king planks. 

1st. sealer coat.

10th. build coat varnish applied, and the colors get darker and deeper ask you build coats. Planning on applying 16 build coats, leave the boat alone for 2-3 months to dry out, finish with 4 more coats.

Sanding and sanding and sanding

When is comes to sanding and failing a wooden boat, a long board is the only way to get an even flat surface. No need to go to the gym when you do this work!

36" x 4" long block for fairing

Result is a silk smooth finish

With the fairing and sanding down, one last hardware fit check.

Before staining, the hull is bleached to get an even stain job, and a much better result.

Ready for stain!

Sunday, August 20, 2017

Interior hardware

Time has come for installing the interior hardware back in the boat, rudder post, steering gear, fuel tank, and fitting of engine and running gear. New cloth covered wiring installed with original style wire clamps. Ceiling boards are stained varnished and installed.

Deck hardware

With the deck hardware back from the chrome shop, it's time to rough fitting onto the new top decks. Measurements are carefully taken from the old wood for propper fit.

Interior parts.

With a great deal of help from Don Ayers, who has gathered documentation from many barrelback's, I have been able to recreate the original interior framing, in soft woods as original.

Top deck planking

Not been an update for a long time, but work been slowly moving along. The top decks are done, and rough sanded. Used as much as possible of the original deck framing where the hull ID numbers are stamped in.

Thursday, November 12, 2015

The "dreaded" covering boards.

After two years living in Europe, finishing a Riva project over there, it is the time to complete the barrelback project here at home. The bottom and hull sides was finished before I tucked the project away. And the next thing to do was the dreaded covering boards. On the barrel backs this is a 16/4 (4" / 100 mm) thick mahogany, and the cost of the 16/4" x 16" wide x 16' long mahogany log was over a $1000 alone. Better keep your tongue straight, measure twice and cut once...

Using the old covering boards as rough templates to rough cut the blanks from the mahogany log. Must assure that there is plenty of extra material, since the shape of the new hull is not 100% identical from the way it was. 

With the pieces rough cut out with a jigsaw and a long blade, the finish cut is made on the bandsaw with a 3/4" 4 TPI saw blade. These are heavy pieces to handle, an extra pair of hands are recommended. 

With the boards cut to size, comes the job to fair the inside edge of the two opposite boards. This way the deck planking will line up perfectly later. The outside edge you trim to size once they are mounted on the hull to make a perfect match to the hull shape.

The covering boards are hand planed to make a nice, even fit onto the sheerline of the boat.

Finally, the but joints are cut repeatedly with a "Japan" saw to make tight joints.

With the covering boards installed, we can start with the deck framing which on the barrelbacks are attached to the covering boards.