Hull without Stem-Forefoot:
I followed Dannenberg's method with a clear plastic and a tracing wheel. This worked very well, however I took a shortcut when I used a thin stencil type, sticky back plastic. I would recommend to use the thicker Mylar plastic described in his book.
I am very happy with the end result. As described, I used a 1/8" router bit make the first "center" cut for the depth of the rabbet. Then using my Fein Multimaster with a 1 1/8" wide blade to carve out down to correct depth. Some light chisel work and final sanding.
Old and new, side by side:
The last two bottom- and topside frames to do, and then the transom.