Deck hardware

With the deck hardware back from the chrome shop, it's time to rough fitting onto the new top decks. Measurements are carefully taken from the old wood for propper fit.

Interior parts.

With a great deal of help from Don Ayers, who has gathered documentation from many barrelback's, I have been able to recreate the original interior framing, in soft woods as original.

Top deck planking

Not been an update for a long time, but work been slowly moving along. The top decks are done, and rough sanded. Used as much as possible of the original deck framing where the hull ID numbers are stamped in.

The "dreaded" covering boards.

After two years living in Europe, finishing a Riva project over there, it is the time to complete the barrelback project here at home. The bottom and hull sides was finished before I tucked the project away. And the next thing to do was the dreaded covering boards. On the barrel backs this is a 16/4 (4" / 100 mm) thick mahogany, and the cost of the 16/4" x 16" wide x 16' long mahogany log was over a $1000 alone. Better keep your tongue straight, measure twice and cut once...

Using the old covering boards as rough templates to rough cut the blanks from the mahogany log. Must assure that there is plenty of extra material, since the shape of the new hull is not 100% identical from the way it was. 

With the pieces rough cut out with a jigsaw and a long blade, the finish cut is made on the bandsaw with a 3/4" 4 TPI saw blade. These are heavy pieces to handle, an extra pair of hands are recommended. 

With the boards cut to size, comes the job to fair the inside edge of the two opposite boards. This way the deck planking will line up perfectly later. The outside edge you trim to size once they are mounted on the hull to make a perfect match to the hull shape.

The covering boards are hand planed to make a nice, even fit onto the sheerline of the boat.

Finally, the but joints are cut repeatedly with a "Japan" saw to make tight joints.

With the covering boards installed, we can start with the deck framing which on the barrelbacks are attached to the covering boards.

Like a new engine.

My model K engine is back from rebuild, and it looks really good.

Before, a rusted out and seized engine.

As good it looks on the outside, more important is the inside. All the components like, generator, fuel pump, oil/water pump, carburetor and starter has been completely dissasembeled and rebuild. New valves and seat, new pistons, rings and bearings. Bad cylinders has been sleeved and correct vintage wiring.

Like a new engine

Pre-war CC engines have a deeper blue than post-war.

Wiring with thumbscrews.

Closeup of the carburetor and fuel pump.

Initial fairing

The last topside planks are installed and screw holes are bunged, and its time for initial fairing of the hull sides. Used a DeWalt right angle sander with a 8" softpad for a quick rough sanding of the bungs and plank joints. The renaming sanding will be done by hand with longboards.

Moved the hull outside since it generate a lot of dust. Jacked it up into manageable work height.

Next up is new covering boards, deck framing and planks. However, due to extensive travel the next year, the boat will get another hiatus as I will spend much of my time in Europe.  Who was counting time anyway....... The work will continue in August 2013. Check in for updates then.

Last topside plank

The last topside plank is fitted, ready for final installation. It has been a tough job getting the seems nice and tight, and getting the planks to conform to the hull without cracking. 

I have used the well described router method by Dannenberg. The backside of the plank is "glued" to the battens and frames with 3M5200 and I have used West epoxy in seam between the planks. The 5200 will not sand flat, so if you don't get the seams completely tight, you can feel the seam after sanding. Epoxy dries hard, and you can sand it flat. Mixing it with a thickening agent with a hardwood color.

I thought I had a lot of clamps, but just about every single one was used when dry-fitting both top planks.

Dannenberg state in his book that he uses 65 hours to rough cut, rout, fit and final assembly of the topsides of a small runabout. Experience must make it easier and quicker, or maybe a helper or two, because I used more than twice that time.